
The task seems simple enough: compose a vegetarian Passover seder. At the risk of sounding dismissive, going the Sephardic route is relatively easy. When you have a wide variety of grains and beans at your disposal, how hard can it be to compose a healthy and (more importantly) tasty holiday meal? But putting together an Ashkenazi vegetarian seder is a test of one’s mettle. The exercise brings to mind the work of writers like George Perec, who wrote La disparition, an entire novel without the letter e. The constraint may seem arbitrary and tyrannical, but there it is, work with it.
[And we’ll leave aside question of vegan seders to the pros, way too complicated. See Cecily Marbach Oberstein’s post for some tips.]
Begin at the beginning: note the resources at your disposal. Rather than obsess over what you cannot cook, celebrate what you can. You have root vegetables for starch, cruciferous veggies for bulk, and mushrooms for some hearty texture. Add fruits (fresh and dried), greens, nuts (though not peanuts), bright and spicy sauces to titillate and satisfy the palate. Ultimately, the same principle applies to vegetarian cooking as to Passover eating: Offer a wide range of textures and flavors so that people don’t feel that anything is “missing.” Mix the raw, the cooked, the baked and offer mountains of it all.
Shift your perspective. Rather than building the meal around grains and beans, rethink the role of the starches and the more mutable veggies. Then find some good eggs to bump up the protein. Roasted or baked potatoes aren’t a side, instead they are the canvas upon which your guests may lavish any number of toppings and fixings (baked potato bar = FUN!). Pureed cauliflower is filling and inexpensive. Add a dollop of ghee and some garlic, you may even convert some cauliphobes. Eggs are easy enough to bake into a frittata, which becomes the foil for a variety of veggies, spices and cheeses. Speaking of which, consider the charming addition of a cheese plate: instead of crackers or toast, offer matzo and sliced fruits or crudités to compliment whatever kosher cheeses you’ve tracked down.
And of course, there is the never ending Pesach Quest for Fiber. [Side note: when I first converted to Judaism it wasn’t until half way through my first chametz free week that I understood this joke: “At our seder, we had whole wheat and bran matzo, fortified with Metamucil. The brand name, of course, is ‘Let My People Go.’” Indeed, indeed.]
Quinoa, though a controversial addition to the Passover table, provides both fiber and protein. The seed lends itself nimbly to pilafs and croquettes. Amaranth can play a similar role, though its anise-y flavor can be a bit of an acquired taste. On their own, these seeds pack a healthy punch of fiber, but add some dried fruit and a handful of almonds and they should, ahem, “help.”
As usual, with most things Jewish, all of these elements are up for debate and should draw ire from at least a couple of your guests. (I mean really, don’t even get me started on soy….). My own seder table will be heavy on the veggies and fruits, light on the matzo concoctions, and I fully expect to hear about it from the in-laws.
There are a couple of excellent resources online: http://www.vrg.org/recipes/passover.htm
http://www.jewishveg.com/recipes.html
Both sites suggest options for further reading (including Molly Katzen’s Still Life with Menu, And Roberta Kalechofsky’s various works).