Isn’t it frustrating when you eat something delicious but you can’t quite put your finger on that little ingredient that pulls everything together? In Moroccan cuisine, that extra spice could just be a little-known delicacy known as argan oil. Used in all sorts of food recipes, lotions, and creams, this reddish oil is derived from argan tree nuts native to Morocco. Lately, though, a small number of farms in Israel’s Negev desert have also forayed into argan production.

Previously, argan orchards were confined to a small corner of northwest Africa. Few oils are rarer or harder to obtain than argan since its production is so limited and it is relatively expensive. But argan groves have been slowly expanding in Israel since the Negev is uniquely equipped to provide a comfortable habitat.

Orly Sharir, a Negev farmer who primarily grows herbs and spices, moved to her small farm with her husband Yoni several years ago intending to work the land on a small scale and raise camels on the side. Orly and Yoni heard about a professor researching argan growth at a nearby kibbutz and realized it was time to experiment.

“Growing camels couldn’t sustain us and we thought about expanding out product base,” Orly writes. “The professor talked about the qualities and virtues of the argan tree. Our interest was piqued when we read that the argan needs very little water to survive.”

Today, Orly and Yoni have 110 argan trees in their grove. The trees have adapted to the Negev surprisingly well–their deep roots in particular have helped protect against flash floods and soak up the meager rainfall. Once harvested, argan nuts are cracked and the seeds lightly roasted before the oil is extracted, lending the oil its reddish hue. The fine oil is packaged in small glasses and sold at high prices.

Demand has not been an issue, and the oil is slowly making its way across the Atlantic. Besides its medicinal qualities, argan oil, which is high in protein and essential unsaturated fatty acids, can be used as a key ingredient in couscous, salad dressings, tajines, and other related foods. A 2001 New York Times article describes the oil’s “vibrantly toasty, nutlike flavor with fruity overtones and a pleasing soupcon of bitterness. Its assertive flavor makes it a lovely finishing touch for cheeses, soupls, grain dishes and braised meats.”

Desert farmers are always seeking new products that can grow in the harsh climate, and argan’s appeal will only increase as it gains popularity. For now, though, just a few small-scale Negev farms are producing it.

“Here in the desert, we believe our surroundings dictate the pace of life and tell us what to grow,” Orly writes. “We start small, use plenty of trial and error, and if we see something works, we run with it.”