Leah is the former Editor in Chief of The Jew & The Carrot (through Jan, 2009). These days, she is a full time freelance writer who's work has appeared in the New York Times Magazine, Saveur, Gastronomica, The Forward and other publications. Outside of work, Leah’s interest in food continues – she is a member of the Park Slope Food Co-op and a Brooklyn CSA, a frequent green market shopper, and an enthusiastic cook. She swoons over sharp cheddar and garlicky sauteed kale.
Leah Koenig's Website »


As Mia Rut’s recent post mentioned, this weekend’s Brooklyn Food Conference was a rip-roaring, inspirational, 1000+ person success – a true testament to the power of grassroots organizing and the vibrancy of the sustainable food world. For those folks who missed the conference, or are – for some odd reason – looking for even *more* reasons to be inspired, look no further than the recent article in Jewish Woman Magazine, which introduces readers to more than a dozen amazing and pioneering women who are changing the face of the Jewish environmental movement, from the ground up.
x-posted from My Jewish Learning

Like many Jewish travelers, I have a tendency to seek out the Jewish connections in any city I visit. Stumbling across a generations-old deli, say, or a stone building etched with a Star of David from its former life as a synagogue, helps me feel at home when I am abroad. For Jews spending time in Rome, no trip is complete without a trek to the Roman Ghetto and a taste of Carciofi alla Giudia, literally “Jewish Style Artichokes.”
Known for their delicate chrysanthemum shape and crispy, salt-kissed taste, fried artichokes are a popular dish in restaurants across Italy’s largest city. Their history however, stems back to 16th century, when Roman Jews were confined to an overcrowded, impoverished ghetto. Deep fried artichokes might seem like a delicacy now, but according to Matthew Goodman who authored, Jewish Food: The World at Table
, “food [in the ghetto] was scarce [and] frying was the cheapest and easiest option of food preparations.”
More and recipe, below the jump…

This article was originally published in The Forward.

Three months into planning our wedding, my fiancé and I found ourselves playing the unlikely role of matchmaker. As a farmers’ market shopping, eco-minded Jew, I wanted the food at our reception to be fresh, local and organic. Meanwhile, my fiancé’s Orthodox family required anything we served to have the kosher stamp of approval. After several weeks of searching for a caterer who could meet our needs, only to be disappointed by self-proclaimed “gourmet” companies that charged budget-blowing prices for the same-old uninspired entrees gussied up with a sprig of rosemary, it was time for plan B.

Yosh and I got a worm composter for our wedding – it’s true, we are just that dorky! For the last week or so (yes, we got married in November, but the composter arrived in mid-February, and I finally got around to getting the worms last week), I’ve been the proud mom of a brood of about 1,000 wriggling, very hungry worms.
They live in the Worm Factory, pictured above (p.s. definitely not our kitchen), and I couldn’t be more excited. Yosh on the other hand, is a bit more squeamish about the whole thing, though I can’t blame him. He suffered through a bit of worm trauma when his last roommate neglected to properly feed worms, and the bin quickly self destructed.
But aside from the nachas I feel over the little munchies - which was a definitely surprise – I was certainly not counting on our compost bin bringing up halachic (Jewish law) questions. Then Passover entered the horizon.
Last year, we brought you savory hamentashen – the three-cornered cookie that eschews the sugar in the dough in favor of dried herbs and a delicious, mushroom and onion filling. This year, I offer two new innovations in hamantashen making – both results of a little hamantashen-baking party my husband and I hosted at our place today.
Behold #1: The Minitashen. It’s bite-sized, which seriously ups its cuteness factor, packed with flavor (Nutella in this case), and it is the perfect solution to excess dough.

See below the jump for more….
(x-posted from the Forward)

The first time I came face to face — or rather, spoon to mouth — with a bowl of cholent, at the age of 24, I had no idea what it was. While I was growing up in a nonobservant home, my family had no need for such a meal, a hearty stew that simmers overnight in a pre-lit oven or slow cooker without transgressing the prohibition against cooking on the Sabbath. But as I learned (and tasted) more, I discovered a dish that can wrap even the coldest late-winter afternoon in warmth and comfort, and one that makes a valuable addition to any Jewish cook’s repertoire.
The custom of honoring the Sabbath with a hot meal is revered in Jewish tradition, but the Torah complicates things by stating, “You shall kindle no fire throughout your habitations upon the sabbath day” (Exodus 35:3). As early as the fourth century, Jewish cooks began to perform culinary acrobatics to circumvent this halachic conundrum — finding ways to get hot food on the table without lighting a new fire. Renowned cookbook author Joan Nathan wrote in her book “Jewish Cooking in America”:
“For centuries, on Friday mornings [Jews] would assemble [their stews]. The dish was covered with a cloth or mixture of flour and water to form a crust. It started cooking on Friday before sunset and [was] left to warm all night over coals in a hot oven….”


Disney has found a way to infiltrate breakfast, by branding eggs with images of Mickey Mouse and other loveable Disney characters. These eggs are (naturally, I suppose) neither cage free nor organic – but they sure put the fun back in breakfunfast. I have many questions, but I’ll start with three:
1. What is Disney thinking, offering customers a daily opportunity to crack Mickey’s head open?
2. Is there anything scarier than waking up in the morning and opening up your egg carton to find MICKEY MOUSE GRINNING UP AT YOU?
x-posted from Jewcy.

How did Dominique Courbe, a non-Jewish, second-generation butcher from Normandy end up behind the counter at the only kosher French brasserie and butcher shop in Manhattan, Le Marais? And how did his boss, Jose Meirelles, a former banker from Portugal, end up owning said restaurant?
Ironically, these two men are changing the landscape of kosher meat in New York City, offering high-quality, aged meats and a diverse selection that is virtually impossible to find in other kosher establishments. I spoke with Courbe and Meirelles about their decidedly unorthodox career paths, the inspiration behind what they do, and the “meat alchemy” that goes into making a kosher filet mignon. Read on.

According to Raymond Sokolov’s book, Why We Eat What We Eat
, “Before Columbus, there were no apples in the Americas. Settlers brought seeds and grafts, hoping to recreate their old way of life.” Any American who has ever given a teacher an apple (or seen a movie where such an exchange occurred), uttered the words, “an apple a day…” or traversed the produce section of a grocery store or farmers’ market knows that those early settlers succeeded, big time. It’s a good thing too, because, as the apple wove its way into American life and culture, delicious things occurred – like the apple crisp.
Homemade apple crisps arguably rank among the humblest desserts on the planet, containing nothing more than fruit, fat, sugar, and flour. I like that in a sweet. With a crisp, there is no need for the bells and whistles of a layered trifle. They don’t require batter to be scooped evenly onto baking sheets like a cookie and, unlike making crème brulee, there’s definitely no blow torch necessary. It is undoubtedly the crisp’s heimish (Yiddish for “homey” or “comfortable”) nature that makes it a Shabbat dinner favorite, served either as a dessert or during the meal as an alternative to kugel.
That said, because of their simplicity, people sometimes classify crisps as a bit boring – like the cousin you invite over to eat out of obligation, rather than his or her sparkling wit and dinner conversation. But gussied up with just a touch of crystallized ginger and a scoop of freshly whipped cream, the apple crisp holds its own at any table.
Find more photos and my recipe for Apple and Pear Crisp below the jump…

For folks who do not get The Jewish Week in New York, I wanted to share this cute article that was written about me and Hazon. It also gives a bit of insight into the ever-emerging new Jewish food movement. I’m a bit afraid/embarrassed that my obsession over not serving strawberries at my November wedding might seem weird to some people – but I know readers of this blog will understand!
She is What She Eats
By: Randi Sherman
12/17/08
At Leah Koenig’s wedding last month, the details had to be just right. The groom, musician Yoshie Fruchter, understandably insisted the music be good, easy enough. And Koenig wanted the menu to be good, a more difficult task considering her strict stipulations.
“I couldn’t find a caterer who could make food kosher enough for me, my husband and our guests, and who cared about the food being organic and seasonal,” said Koenig. One caterer who fit the criteria couldn’t handle the size of the party. The caterer for the JCC in Manhattan, who Koenig was excited to work with, suggested strawberry shortcake, but the berries were out of season and wouldn’t be locally grown.
To get the caterers to work with her, Koenig suggested apple crisp with vanilla ice cream instead. Anna Stevenson, a friend and former colleague, provided butternut squash, beets and potatoes for the meal from the Isabella Freedman Jewish Retreat Center in Connecticut. Guests, some dressed as carrots and peas to honor Koenig’s tradition of sometimes dressing up in carrot costume for coworkers’ weddings, praised the food served at the meal. Koenig calls it her “crowning glory.”
While a fruit’s seasonality might not be a factor for most brides, to 26-year-old Koenig, serving strawberries in mid-to-late fall is nearly sacrilege.


Here we are at day 2 of the Hazon Food Conference, and already there have been so many amazing moments of connection – between old friends reuniting here in California, between new friends who are excited to partner with each other on new food-related projects, and moments of personal “ah-ha” connections as exciting new ideas are shared during the sessions and at meals.
Below, are a series of images that help capture some of those connections. Sometimes pictures are worth a thousand words. This weekend, they’re worth a thousand tastes. Btai Avon!

Today, 18 heritage turkeys were schected (slaughtered in accordance to kosher law), plucked, salted, soaked and prepped by volunteers to feed Hazon Food Conference participants on Friday night. One volunteer, who attended the goat schecting at last year’s conference, commented that the two experiences felt significantly different.
She noted that last year, many of the participants personally knew or had helped to raise the goats, whereas the turkeys slaughtered today were sourced from a nearby farm – and that the resulting emotional impact seemed less immediate. Perhaps it also had something to do with the fact that last year’s schecting was incorporated as an educational part of the conference and therefore an integral aspect of the overall conference. Alternatively, today’s shecting occured before most particpants even arrived and was primarily conducted as a way to provide ethical, kosher meat for the event.

In just two days, 550 people will descend upon Pacific Grove, California for Hazon’s 3rd Annual Food Conference. Over 4 days farmers and rabbis, nutritionists and chefs, vegan and omnivores, activists and teachers will come together to explore the dynamic interplay of food, Jewish tradition and contemporary life. Conference themes will focus on Jewish food culture, cutting edge food law and policy, kosher meat issues, health and nutrition, cooking and gardening, and Israeli food and agriculture.
Can’t make it to California this year? Didn’t know about the Food Conference until just now? Have a loved one attending the conference and curious to know what they’re up to? Have no fear!
See original post.
Cranberry Bread
2 cups of flour
1/2 to 3/4 cup of sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons of baking powder
1/2 teaspoon of baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
½ stick of softened butter
½ cup applesauce
1 beaten egg
The zest of one orange
3/4 cup of orange juice
1 teaspoon of cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon of freshly grated nutmeg
1 bag of carefully rinsed and picked over cranberries
1 cup of chopped, toasted pecans