While deciding whether or not to schect (slaughter) a goat at the Hazon Food Conference has created controversy, the question of how to schect a goat for quality meat also seems to be a cause for debate.
Yesterday Nigel wrote on The Jew & The Carrot: “The first thing we found out (and this surprised me): meat has to be hung up for a few days before you can eat it.”
Later that day, a blogger at The Failed Messiah countered with:
“Meat does not need to be “hung up” for a few days before you can eat it. Think back to the Temple, Nigel, and the sacrifices offered there…Nowhere in [The Torah] is a command to “hang up” the meat for a few days before consumption. In fact, quite the opposite is true.”
I think there was a bit of cross-conversation confusion – it seems that Failed Messiah was referring to halacha (and he’s right, there is no specific law about “hanging up” meat after an animal is slaughtered), whereas Nigel was talking about hanging up meat for taste and health reasons. Regardless, Failed Messiah’s counter post inspired me to look deeper into the logistics of schechting from my perspective as a registered dietitian who now works for Hazon.
There are a number of factors that influence the quality of the meat – the most commonly cited being whether cows are grass-fed or grain-fed (but that is a topic for another post). In terms of hanging, there are two main ways to age meat: wet and dry aging. Dry aging, which is what most people think of when we talk about aging meat, is when the meat is hung in a clean, temperature and humidity controlled cooler for a period of time. When the meat hangs, it goes through rigor mortis, giving enzymes time to break down some of the protein strains in the muscles which results in a tender cut of meat and more concentrated flavors due to moisture loss.
Wet aging is just another example of how food processing has changed with our industrial food system. Wet aging occurs when meat is butchered, vacuum packed in plastic and boxed for distribution. The meat ages while in transit even though it is not hun up. The meat is sealed and no moisture is lost. While the meat does tenderize, the flavors are not concentrated in the same way as with dry aging. This to say, industrial meat is aged even if it is not hung up.
Assuming we wet age the meat at the conference before serving it, how long does meat need to hang/dry age? While most of the recent research is done on USDA certified non-kosher cuts of beef, the evidence is still strong enough to state that generally, the meat will get increasingly tender as it ages. The Journal of Animal Science published articles in December 2006 and June 2004 that reviewed the influence of the aging period on the quality of the meat. Research showed that hanging the meat for 21 days provides a more tender cut of meat than 7 days and hanging meat for 14 days provides a tender cut of meat than 7 days, respectively. However, the majority of the enzymatic action occurs within the first 7 days.
My vote (and granted, I don’t not personally eat red meat), is that two goats get schected: one a week prior to the conference in order to produce higher quality meat and one during the conference as an important step in reconnecting with where our food comes from.
If you want to learn more about meat aging or other interesting elements of animal husbandry, the Iowa State University, Department of Animal Science is a great resource.
Hazon and The Jew & The Carrot will continue to post updates on this process as we learn more.