Montreal's Jean-Talon Market

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Montreal’s Jean-Talon Market

by Lara Rabinovitch · June 11th, 2007

America, Farmer's Markets, Farming, Seasonality

It was Grand Prix weekend here in Montreal and to show my appreciation for motorized vehicles, I bought a bike. It has a basket expressly designed for carrying fresh Montreal bagels–at least it looks that way to me. One of my first destinations aboard my vintage gem had to be the Jean-Talon Market. According to some, the Jean-Talon Market holds the title for largest outdoor market in North America. Besides that, it’s where Montreal’s foodies and farmers (there are plenty of each) meet daily. Right now the only local fresh produce at the market is Quebec asparagus, though the strawberries have just begun to poke their heads too. This is Canada, after all, and Spring arrives a bit later here than south of the border. But the Jean-Talon Market also boasts an amazing variety of Quebecois prepared foods and specialties–everything from maple syrup and sugar pies to Ukrainian meatballs, Indian samosas, and North African pastries. Together it’s a testament to the special multiculturalism of this city. I for one had a hard time deciding between the many locally-produced chèvres (aged and fresh) at Fromagerie Qui lait cru!?!. Cheese curds are also a big local draw–great as a snack or melting ever so slightly over a plate of fries smothered in gravy, a favorite known here as poutine (more on that another time).

The Jean-Talon Market is also a unique part of Quebec’s Jewish past. A small group of Jewish farmers from St. Sophie (in the Laurentians, north of Montreal) sold their goods at the market until quite recently. These were primarily Russian Jews who took an alternative route compared to most urban-directed immigrants, opting instead for farming land grants in the early years of the twentieth century. A few of these families became successful chicken farmers, selling their fresh poultry and eggs to Montrealers for decades. Not much Jewish presence remains today at the market, but the Goodz family continues to sell their famous Putter’s Pickles throughout the city.

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7 Responses to “Montreal’s Jean-Talon Market”

Rabbi Avi Finegold Says:
June 12th, 2007 at 7:27 am
my grandfather actually had the first jewish operated dairy farm in canada, at Ste. Sophie……ahhh the jean talon market. Along with waldman’s for the freshest fish, these are the early food memories of my youth.
Eric Schulmiller Says:
June 12th, 2007 at 1:54 pm
I admit it. I’ve had access to the best of both, and I like Montreal bagels better than New York ones!

Like their NY counterparts, Montreal bagels are:

-toastable
-crusty AND chewy

but they edge their south-of-the-(US)border cousins by also being:
-slightly sweet
-just a tiny bit cakey like a good challah
-small enough to eat two in one sitting (thereby doubling your toppings variety potential).

There. I admitted it. That’s a load off of this New Yorker’s chest (and plate).
feygele Says:
June 14th, 2007 at 11:20 am
I’ve been finding the local vegetarian-friendly cheese curds really salty this year. Which is sad. Oh, so sad. It gives the poutine at Pizza Pita (or the poutine I make at home) an extra zing that I’m just not interested in.

I miss my squeeky cheese!
Uncle Marty Says:
June 15th, 2007 at 11:32 am
As I read your article about Montreal….and the bagels etc etc… I am sure you are a MONTREALAIS…down deep..

Uncle marty
Paula Keys Says:
June 21st, 2007 at 2:10 pm
Do all Vegetarians eat cheese? Ive recently omited meats and dairy from my diet and am going more raw. Probably 75% raw and 25% cooked. Just recently took at raw chef class here in Washington and absolutely loved it. After my bout with cancer 2 yrs ago I decided I had to change my diet and have a family of 4 living at home. My husband in Jewish and we do biblical kosher, but he still eats meat and I don’t. I try to buy all organic if possible, some things are ok though. Ive gotten him to eat more raw and I make green smoothies. They are great for getting more greens into us.
Leah Koenig Says:
June 21st, 2007 at 6:22 pm
Eric, when my boyfriend and I went to Montreal this past winter, we bought a dozen bagels to bring home to freeze. It should’ve been two dozen! For a few days, we ate them greedily – until we realized that, tragically, they were almost gone. We savored those last few toasty, chewy, cakey bagels as if we didn’t live in the city of bagels itself!