Mandel

NYT Dining, highlights

Grand dame of Gastronomic Judiasm, cookbook author Joan Nathan, breaks out the obligatory Hannukah story with a visit to the Satmar Hasidic community in Kiryas Joel, NY.

Deftly sidestepping the elephant in the room, this year’s succession battle between the Rebbe’s sons, Nathan’s story is all sweetness and light. She paints an idyllic picture of a modern day Hungarian shtetl transplanted to New York State where grandmother Mindel Appel, the story’s heroine, raised 11 kids in a three bedroom apartment, and is busy at work cooking for a community engagement party.

Nathan lovingly details Appel’s Old World, nearly lost recipes:

Cheese Danish Pastries (Delkelekh)

Hungarian Stuffed-Under-the-Skin Chicken

Hungarian Eggs with Tomatoes, Peppers and Onions (Letcho)

Deep in the piece, Nathan teases us with promises of cheese latkes, but only delivers in a web-only Q&A. The eight additional recipes are our Hanukkah treat.

– Sarah Rose

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