
Mollie Katzen is the Jewish patron saint of vegetarian cooking. She wrote, hand lettered and illustrated The Moosewood Cookbook in 1977, and has gone on to write nine other cookbooks, including two for children, and a revised edition of the original Moosewood Cookbook. Mollie has over 6 million books in print, has been inducted in the James Beard Cookbook Hall of Fame, and is a charter member of the Harvard School of Public Health Nutrition Roundtable. If you’ve ever had a vegetarian Shabbat lunch, chances are you ate at least one of Mollie’s creations, and at my house we’ve been known to make entire meals using only Mollie’s cookbooks. Her recipes are filling, nutritious, easy, and invariably scrumptious.
The New Moosewood is a staple in any vegetarian kitchen, and Mollie’s latest book, The Vegetable Dishes I Can’t Live Without is an instant classic. Buy her books at your local independent bookstore, and visit her website, molliekatzen.com for recipes, resources, and Mollie news. Mollie spoke with The Jew & The Carrot about buying organic, eating meat, cooking simpler, and okra.
Below the jump: The full interview, and a chance to win a copy of The New Moosewood Cookbook!
Win Mollie Katzen’s The New Moosewood Cookbook! Tell us below about the vegetable dish you can’t live without and be entered in a raffle to win. (One answer per reader will be counted – please leave your comments by Sunday, July 13.)
At the Jew and the Carrot we’ve been thinking a lot about meat lately–kosher meat, meat packing, treatment of workers in slaughterhouses, and pros and cons of organic meat. You write vegetarian cookbooks, but I know you’re not a strict vegetarian. Can you tell us about your own meat-eating policies, and how you came to them?
I don’t really have “policies” about meat. I ate almost none for about 30 years, largely because my plate was so filled with whole grains, beans, and vegetables, that there was no room. Also, because I’d been raised in a kosher home, I was suspicious of the meat out in the world, and worried about its cleanliness and “upbringing,” not to mention bad agricultural practices. So it just receded into the background. But my main focus has always been passion for plant-based foods, not hatred or judgment of meat.
Many people assume “vegetarian” means anti-meat, period – that as long as meat is not served, a vegetarian will be happy with anything – potato chips, bagels, even junk food, anything. Vegetarian, as a negative statement about meat, is not necessarily an embrace of vegetables. I embrace vegetables, and if meat is also on the plate, fine with me. But I want the plate to be 80% plant – based, or maybe even 90% and if there’s meat or fish, I want it to be “clean,” meaning sustainably raised.
Summer is prime time for farmer’s markets and anyone who loves them, but it’s still a little early in the season. What’s your favorite early summer farmer’s market delight?
Peas, herbs, radishes. Strawberries, stone fruit. Fava beans, spring onions, spring garlic. Those are my favorite early birds.
How important is organic food to you? What are the standards you expect from something labeled organic?
Organic is important. Organic standards are not up to me – they are classified by the USDA, so it’s not subjective. The most important points about organic are the absence of pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides – so, chemical-free.
Your cooking style has evolved a lot since The Moosewood Cookbook. Can you tell us how that came about, and if you see any more stylistic changes in the near future?
My cooking now is simpler, and that’s largely due to the availability of better produce. When you are blessed with freshly-harvested local tomatoes, corn, broccoli, peppers, etc. do as little to them as possible. Just get them to the table with some good olive oil and salt and pepper immediately!
Another evolution in my cooking: if I want to make something taste rich, I’ll tend to use heat (high roasting temperature, a good sauté environment, etc.) and seasoning (judicious use of garlic, ginger, herbs) rather than sauces. If I do make sauces, they’re very light. And I use vegetables to season other vegetables: pungent greens (basil leaves, arugula, cilantro) or roasted garlic, or sautéed mushrooms and peppers are all seasonings in addition to being vegetables. I’ll roast roma tomatoes at 275°F for 4 hours and then use them to season cooked beans.
We’re beginning to care a lot about buying food that’s locally grown, but sometimes that means leaving out some of our favorites, like bananas and oranges. How do you compromise wanting to buy from farmer’s markets and local producers, and wanting to eat your favorite things?
I try to use the 70-30 rule (easier in California than in other places, but find what works where you are). That is 70% local (150 mile radius) and 30% from as close as possible. My bottom line is that I don’t buy produce from other countries (with the exception of Mexican organic tomatoes – Del Cabo brand). This is not only based on my principles, but people should be aware that with the free trade agreements in place, growers in other countries can use chemicals that are banned in the US, and they don’t have to tell you. This includes hideous stuff like DDT.
I know your new cookbook is called The Vegetable Dishes I Can’t Live Without, but are there any veggies you don’t love?
Okra.