The most recent issue of Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture includes an article I wrote called “Reaping the Faith.”
The article profiles Zaid and Haifa Kurdieh, two religious Muslims who combine their faith and farming (sounds familiar somehow…). It focuses on the concept of Tayyib, which some Muslims view as a mandate to eat sustainably and healthily, and compares Tayyib with the significantly more widespread Muslim eating mandate, Halal. It traces the history of faith and farming throughout other religious traditions including Judaism and Christianity. Additionally, it touches upon Zaid and Haifa’s struggles to secure visas for Muslim farm workers from Jordan and Egypt to work as apprentices on their farm. And, naturally, it gives a healthy shout out to Hazon’s Tuv Ha’Aretz program.
The extra exciting news is – the folks at Gastronomica are planning an evening of discussion around the article on Tuesday, May 13 at the beautiful new Astor Center in in NYC – check back here in the next couple of weeks for more information about the event.
Here are the first two paragraphs as a teaser (the article is unfortunately not available online). To purchase a copy or subscription, check out Gastronomica’s website.
Reaping the Faith
By: Leah Koenig
Gastronomica - Winter 2008
“There is no room for it” Haifa says, pressing a clove of purple garlic in my hands. I smile at this generous gift and watch her husband Zaid chat with a customer while weighing eggplants at their farmers market stand in New York City. It is a Sunday afternoon on the cusp of early fall. Heirloom tomatoes rest heavily in plastic flats, bulging with the recent rainfall. Their skin mimics the startling red of watermelon flesh and flamboyant orange of fresh apricots. Haifa offers me a slice of crumbly blue cheese, making me feel like a guest in their home rather than a customer.
Zaid and Haifa Kurdieh own and operate Norwich Meadows Farms in upstate New York, where they have been farming organically since 1998. Twice a week during the growing season they make the 225-mile drive to New York City to deliver produce to their community-supported agriculture (CSA) locations in the Bronx and Manhattan, and two farmers’ markets in lower Manhattan. This summer, they also opened a CSA in Norwich where members pick up their produce directly on the farm and can spend time working in the fields or greenhouse. Like many organic family farmers, Zaid and Haifa favor the direct farmer-to-customer relationships found at farmers’ markets and CSAs. They enjoy interacting with their neighbors and urban customers, and view it as an opportunity to build relationships and educate them about eating locally-grown organic foods. And like other small organic farms, Norwich Meadows Farms was started partly in response against the system of large-scale, faceless industrial farming, processing and packaging which has dominated US food production since mid 20th century. But despite many similarities, one thing sets Zaid and Haifa apart from other small-scale, organic farmers: their faith and practice as religious Muslims.
Purchase Gastronomica here.