
Over the last couple of days, I’ve watched with interest the growing debate around whether or not Hazon should schect a goat (or two) at the Hazon Food Conference. Last night, however, I was faced with my own “meaty” challenge: whether or not to eat it.
I have been a vegetarian for the last eight years and was vegan for two. Over that time, I have never particularly craved meat aside from an occasional urge for a corned beef sandwich from this amazing deli near my parents’ house in Chicago. (Even then, I’m not sure if it was the meat itself I craved, or the comforting memory of my mom coming home with a warm corned beef bundle wrapped in hefty white paper.)
Last night, however, was a different story. I found myself tagging along to dinner at a kosher Bukharian restaurant on 108th street, also known as “Bukharian Broadway, in Rego Park, Queens. (To read more about Bukharian Jews and their culinary delights, read Julia Moskin’s great article in the NY Times Dining & Wine section.)
Up until last night, I had certainly never had Bukharian food and to be honest – I barely knew that this sub-group of Central Asian Jews even existed. So I didn’t realize right away what my friend meant when he said to me, “you might want to have a snack on the way.” Turns out, he was referring to the menu which was filled with chicken and lamb kebabs, lamb samsi (like an Indian samosa), sweet breads, and special pulled noodles…with spicy lamb.
Once there, I quickly fell in with the swirl of loud ordering, bottles of red wine being poured into tall glasses, and the noise of plate after ceramic plate hitting our table. I devoured what I could, enjoying the pickled cabbage, peppery carrot slaw, scarlet borscht, garlic french fries and large, puffed rounds of sesame crusted bread. Drunk on fiery Rioja and the thrill of an unexpected Thursday feast, I didn’t even think of the meat at first. But watching my friends exclaim over the savory rice “cooked all day” with tender chunks of lamb, or pull a hunk of glistening meat off a flat skewer, something in me shifted. I wanted to try that lamb!
This unpredicted craving frightened me a little. I’d been around friends’ barbeques and meat-filled dinners before without even a twinge of interest. Lately, my body had been craving more protein (summer? exercise?) but it’s nothing that a hardboiled (free range) egg or a handful of almonds couldn’t soothe. I wondered if maybe all this “schecting a goat” talk had gone to my head – or maybe it was just the unusual reverence with which my tablemates were treating their meat dishes. But for some reason – or combination of reasons – my internal conversation about whether or not I will ever consume meat again, which was once firmly shut in my mind, was reopened.
No need to build the suspense – I didn’t eat any lamb last night. But at the end of the meal, my boyfriend asked, “Do you think you’d eat the goat if you end up slaughtering one at the Food Conference? For now it’s food for thought – I’ll keep you posted.