Food czarina Joan Nathan takes a fascinating look inside the insular Satmar Hasidic world — particularly at their dining tables.

Mrs. Appel’s everyday cooking includes dishes like sautéed cabbage and noodles, chicken paprikash with nocklern, stuffed cabbage and cholent with lima beans. Peppers, tomatoes and onions sat out on her counter, waiting to be turned into letcho, the ubiquitous Hungarian sauce, and a salad for a simple supper. Every once in a while, if she has been cooking all day for Shabbat meals or for other people, Mrs. Appel will serve her family frozen pizza.

Frozen pizza? Which frozen pizza has a hechsher? That’s quite awesome.

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