Where’s the Beef? (In the Test Tube)

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x-posted from All Voices.

Scene from inside a fancy restaurant circa 2015:

Man: (scanning the menu) – What are you thinking of getting dear?
Woman: Hmmm…pasta looks good, but I think I’d actually prefer a steak.
Man: Do you know where the meat comes from?
Woman: Of course! I always inquire about the source of the meat I eat. It’s from vat 13 at Acme Labs!

This scene may sound like fodder for a science fiction novel, but according to Wired, test tube meat may end up on consumers’ plates in the not-too-distant future.

Grown in bioreactors, the in vitro meat would be created to mimic the texture and flavor or real meat, from to ground chuck to filet mignon. As of now, scientists say that they have a ways to go before reaching the desired results – but they’re making progress. Wired reported: “Researchers can currently grow small amounts of meat in the lab, and have even been able to get heart cells to beat in Petri dishes. Growing muscle cells on an industrial scale is the next step.”


The most fascinating (and also disconcerting) thing about in vitro meat is that, according to the folks who believe in it, it will be good for both consumers *and* the environment. The UN projects that the rising middle class will double global meat consumption by 2050. And with the way the meat industry is, more cows = more feedlots, more risk for mad cow disease and more, ahem, gaseous pollution. The group of scientists who met this March in Norway for an In Vitro Meat Consortium had this to say:

“Global meat consumption is estimated to be about 270m tonnes annually. The environmental impact of meeting this forecast demand significant. Cultured meat technology offers an alternative production consumption. This would then allow a downsized livestock production ecologically sound and to meet basic animal welfare needs.”

Jason Matheny, co-founder of the organization, New Harvest (which promotes in vitro meat research), told Wired that, “to produce the meat we eat now, 75 to 95 percent of what we feed an animal is lost because of metabolism and inedible structures like skeleton or neurological tissue. With cultured meat, there’s no body to support; you’re only building the meat that eventually gets eaten.”

My gut response? Um…ewww! My second response: Okay, it’s sweet and all that you’re doing this for the “environment,” but it’s starting to sound creepily like another green revolution. My third response/question: Would the OU grant a kosher stamp to in vitro meat, like they did for cloned meat?

Millions upon millions of dollars are going into research to create a “solution” for the socially-created problem of people eating too much meat. Why not put some of that money towards educating kids and families across the globe (including and especially Americans) about eating less meat and more vegetables and whole grains? Better yet, forget education, why not put that money towards a full-on, mega-watt, marketing campaign to the same effect? It worked with Victory Gardens in World War II. Why can’t we declare a full-on war with climate change and make it patriotic and sexy to grow our own food? (And no I do NOT mean in a test tube!)

Of course I understand it’s not that simple – there are many political and cultural factors that stand in the way. But I still don’t think the rising trend of meat consumption should be passively assumed. Forgive me for sounding like a 60′s hippie here, but we don’t need a technological “fix” like in vitro meat that – low and behold – will most likely have a multitude of other unforseen problems attached to it. We need ourselves an old-fashioned paradigm shift.

Image Credit: Semi Living Food: Disembodied Cuisine by The Tissue Culture and Art Project.

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6 Responses to “Where’s the Beef? (In the Test Tube)”

  1. Avi Says:

    Beyond the OU-meat on beef, there are even more interesting questions. Is it still considered meat, or is it parve since it didn’t come from an animal? What about Pork? Could you have a kosher ham and cheese sandwich? Would vegetarians eat in-vitro meat since an animal didn’t have to die?

  2. KRG Says:

    Green revolution? How about soylent green, too – after all, you could in theory grow long pork, too, and people could eat it – why not…
    EWEEEEw.
    Can we roll this one back please?

  3. Leah Koenig Says:

    Hey Avi – those are incredibly interesting questions. My gut instinct based on zero percent fact would be “no” on all fronts. To grow tissue, don’t you have to start with something that is tissue (meaning, wouldn’t it still be from an animal at some level)? That said, I definitely don’t know the exact science behind it (or even the murky science) – and there’s definitely a lot of gray area.

    I’d never heard of Soylent Green KRG – how incredibly creepy! http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0070723/plotsummary

  4. Kerr Says:

    Not everyone can healthily be vegetarian, and if it were proven to have no side effects AND to be really better for the environment (not just greenwashing or appeasing a certain segment of nebulously-grounded vegetarians) I would probably consider in vitro meat and weigh its other costs and benefits. But I have a strong suspicion that the lab infrastructure needed to support IV meat on a commercial scale would be more energy intensive and ecologically damaging than even factory farming.

    We do need a paradigm shift, and I eat more meat than I need even considering that I do need it (or at least the alternatives are also bad). In terms of making hardcore sustainability cool, I’m interested in what these folks over here are doing: http://www.riot4austerity.org/ http://casaubonsbook.blogspot......erity.html

  5. lauren ahkiam Says:

    hmm…we were just discussing this tension in a class i’m taking, how to balance behavioral modification with technology. it’s tricky!

    on the one hand, i don’t see meat eaters giving up the (literal) goat anytime soon, but on the other hand, test tube meat is creepy and doesn’t do a lot to reduce overall animal product consumption. and i would guess because of the intensity of producing it, it’s still not low-impact.

    as a vegetarian…not sure how i feel.

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